Shuntumbau

[Tom50354]

naja undenkbar ist es ja nicht.

 

Hast du mal hinter der Batterie geguckt, ob man da an den Shunt dran kommt. Wir wissen immer noch nicht wo der Shunt beim T5.2 exakt sitzt.

[Lindawurm]

Laut Mechaniker von Wallner Rosenheim (zugelassen für Modul Austausch und sehr freundlich) ist der Shunt und Masseverbindung beim T5.2 unter dem Kühlschrank, allerdings etwas höher als T5.1, auf dem Radkasten.

 

Gruss Otto

[Toine]

Hi, Sorry but my German knowledge is not good enough to ask this question.

My cali "type basiscamper, 1900 engine with a interior heater bought in june 2004" got a caliground built in. Since i had so many problems with the garage and the problems i had, still not solved, i wanted to check myself what they had been doing. So i removed the refrigerator and checked. I was a bit confused to see how the wires were connected to the shunt. The brown output wire was connected to the battery side instead of the earth side. I checked the elsawin documentation, and as far as i could see this was wrong. After lots of checks, i decided to connect the wiring as described in elsawin, the same as on your picture. I have not yet reconnected the frig, but as far as i can see i think, i still have the same problems.

These problems are:

-flashing of the battery/generator/socket sign on the display when using lots of current for instance by opening the roof.

-when not charging i always use 0 amps.

-Heating stops on different moments. Mostly you can restart it but occasionally it stops completely and i have to go back to the garage where they reset it. Sometimes there is a good reason why it stops (too little fuel) but other times, they can't give me any reason.

 

I wonder if you could give me any direction where to start looking now from here on. The garage has let me down so often, that i would rather try to do it myself.

reading German for me is not more difficult then reading English so don't hesitate to reply in German.

 

Thanks in advance, Toine Schnabel.

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[Tom50354]

The brown wire is connected to the wrong place. It is the cable from the charger.

 

The end of the cable must be connected where also Caliground is connected. Then the on-board computer can show that is loaded.

 

But that's the only mistake I can see. Actually, the vehicle would have to work with it. Only the display the charging current has never been displayed.

 

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[Toine]

Thank you Tom, I was thinking the same as you. Only your statement that it would not measure any amps was not true. So i changed the wire as you suggested. I think the garage has changed this wire in the past on purpose because the color of the ring was different from what VW normally use. The flashing of the G symbol stopped when i connected the charger, so that problem was solved. This morning i wanted to make a first test ride, so i started the engine when the battery was 80% charged. The CU gave the message uberlasted. And it was loading with 24 amps, which i think is quite a lot. Is it possible to change the settings of the CU, so is displays a higher AMP value?

As far as i see it the charging of the battery, is regulated(on/off) by a relay. The current is regulated by the shunt. I don't want to boil my batteries, but i think by changing over this wire nothing has changed in this circuit?

Since the voltage has not yet go over 14.1 volt, i am still in the safe zone. I think the cu just gives a false value, and i don't have to worry?

 

Just for the record, i want to thank you for this site, it is of much better value and more informative then my garage :-).

 

Hope you have time to check my question, i am still a bit worried.

Toine.

[Tom50354]

Hi,

 

 

I did not mean that all not all amperes are not displayed. I wrote that the 230V/110V power amps of the charger are not displayed.

 

 

To your question: The Show with "overload" is normal when the batteries are empty. The batteries should be charged for at least 48 hours a 230V/110V power supply.

[Toine]

Hello Tom,

 

Your remark about the amps of the charger is right.

My batteries were not empty at all, they were at 80%? I think no reason for overload.

 

My first suspect when i checked the diagrams was the shunt :-) again. So i started calculating the resistance of it, which was between 0.006 and 0.008 ohms. This is much lower then the 0,2 ohms which i read in other articles. Do you know what it should be?

 

I measured the voltage between the earth of the camper battery and the earth of the car. Divided this by the amps, and this gave the resistance.

 

Thanks again, Toine.

[Dammerl01]

Hi Toine,

 

the resistance of the shunt is 0,002 Ohm.

 

The value of 0,2 Ohm mentioned in other documentation isn't correct at all.

 

Best regards

Thomas

[Toine]

Hi Thomas,

I checked again, and measured around 0.008 ohms. With this in mind and your 0.002 ohms i could understand the high ampere reading on the cu. So since a new shunt is only 8 euros, and the old one was bent, i ordered a new one. But it did not help :-(. i am still measuring the 0.008 ohms and the reading on the cu is also still excessive.

I checked the wiring from the shunt to the cu, and found no problems.

One other problem, is the flashing of the generator/battery/plug sign on the cu.

 

So i am still busy with this problem, Is there any technical info available on this cu or on the charging unit?

 

I think with some extra resistors, i could get this error messages solved, but for now this is only suppressing the error messages, and there might still be a problem.

 

Thanks so far, i will try to keep you informed in the future about the progress.

 

Toine.

[Dammerl01]

Hi Toine,

 

i don't think, you've a problem anymore.

 

As Tom wrote:

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I have the same "problem" when loading the batteries via generator after a couple of days at the campground. The CU shows ">>24.x Amps". Thats an absolute normal behaviour. Don't care of boiling the batteries. By the way, there is a 80 Amps fuse between generator and the battery under the driver's seat.

 

Regarding the 0.008 Ohm for the shunt resistance: Please consider also measuring tolerances.

 

Best regards,

Thomas

[Dammerl01]

Hi Toine,

 

... thinking about your 'problem' a second time... Let's try it the other way round:

 

Switch off all electric appliances regarding the camper, unplug 220V and keep the engine off. The CU should show an amperage of about 0 Amps (or something like -0,2 Amps - in my case).

 

Now turn on the refrigerator. After some seconds, the CU should show roundabout -4,0 Amps (ca. 45W / 12V = 3,75A). In my case -4,2 Amps. If your value is much higher (or lower), there is something wrong with the shunt itself. But I don't think so.

 

Regards

Thomas

[Radfahrer]

Hallo Toine,

 

first check the fuse on the +pole of the 3rd battery.

 

Disconnect external power-cable and switch off the engine.

 

Then connect a voltmeter between -pole of the 3rd battery and car-ground and switch on the refrigerator.

 

When it´s compressor is running, you should measure approximately 0.1 ... 0.2 V.

 

If it´s much more, the connection battery-minus -> shunt -> car-ground is not ok.

Bearbeitet 8. November 2013 von Radfahrer
Punkt statt Komma

[Simmy84]

Hallo Forum,

 

unser Calli Bj 2006 hat nun (ca. 8 Jahre genutzt) auch ein ausgeprägtes Shuntproblem bekommen.

 

Sind in die VW Werkstatt und dort hat man ein 8 mm Kabel vom Minus Pol der 2. Batterie zur Karossie verbunden. ???

Derzeit funktioniert alles. Die Cu zeigt 13,2 V und ca. 15 Amper an. Auf den ersten Blick scheint alles zu funktionierten....

 

Aber warum wird denn im Forum immer von Massenpunkt unter dem Kühlschrank geredet, wenn ein Massenpunkt unter der 2. Batterie viel einfacher zu erreichen ist.....

[calimerlin]

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Hallo,

 

Da waren ja mal wieder "Spezialisten" am Werk.

 

Ein Kabel vom Minuspol der zweiten Batterie zur Karosserie stellt zwar eine Masseverbindung her,

sorgt aber dafür, dass die Masse nicht mehr über den Shunt geht.

 

Das heisst im Klartext, dass der Stromverbrauch nicht mehr richtig in der CU angezeigt wird.

Die einzig richtige Lösung ist Caliground, also ein Massekabel das die ordnungsgemässe Verbindung

vom Shunt zur Karosserie herstellt.

Alles andere ist Mumpitz.

 

Also sollte das von der (ach so kompetenten) Werkstatt eingebaute Kabel wieder raus.

Und dann das Massekabel vom Shunt zur Karosse eingebaut werden.

 

 

Noch ein Tip:

Bitte im Profil die Daten zum Fahrzeug ausfüllen.

Es ist einfacher, auf Fragen zu antworten,

wenn man weiss um welches Auto es genau geht.

 

 

Gruss,

 

Stephan

[ferscobulli]

Hallo zusammen,

Stephan hat da natürlich recht, dass das nicht kompetent gelöst wurde................aber.........die Stromverbrauchsanzeige ist ja sowieso eine nicht wirklich aussagekräftige Information. Das Einzig aussagefähige ist die Spannung die an der CU angezeigt wird. Und die Spannungsangabe müsste doch auch mit der direkt verlegten Leitung stimmen...........oder liege ich da falsch?

Gruss

Axel